So always read the labels and make sure you get a chain that not only fits your number of gears, but is also recommended for the brand and type of drive train on your bike. This becomes more important when there are 10 or 11 gears. Since it is constantly coming in contact with the chainrings a worn chain will also wear out the rings. So make it part of your routine to check your chain regularly for wear.
Keep in mind that it is much cheaper to replace a chain than it is to replace the chain rings. Chains need to be cleaned and lubricated regularly, otherwise the riding will not feel as good and they will wear out faster which will also cause the chain rings to wear out faster. I suggest using a lubricant specifically designed for bike chains as opposed to lubricant for cars.
First, clean the chain thoroughly with a degreaser, wipe it, apply the lubricant, allow the lubricant to flow into the small spaces, and then wipe with a dry rag.
Lubrication is not needed on the outside surfaces of the chain. In fact, if there is too much lubrication it will simply collect dirt and grime quicker. There are different types of lubricants based on your type of riding, e. Do not lubricate a dirty chain as this will cause dirt to creep between the links and do not ride with a dirty chain as this will cause more wear and tear. Some chains have a master link that makes it easy to unloop the chain see below about adding one.
When reinstalling make sure the chain is facing the correct way. Any writing on the chain plates should be facing outward so you can read it from the side you are working on.
Some riders will choose to just let everything wear out until their bike starts skipping gears, but your risk of a snapped chain increases with this. Others will replace chain and cassette, and hope the chainrings are in a re-usable condition. Never allow a new chain to wear into a worn cassette.
Chain wear is very much like tyre choice or chamois cream — and everyone has an opinion. Heck, even temperate plays a role — a chain left in the sun matched with a cold checker will read wrongly. Perhaps the bigger question is what brand to choose. But we can leave that one for another time. Chain wear is often spoken about, but what is it and when is the right time to replace yours? This type of chain tool from Shimano is commonly thought to be the most accurate as it isolates pin wear.
There are cheaper and simpler tools available, such as the Park Tool CC Here, the Park Tool shows the chain as. And then there are linear tools, such as the KMC digital chain checker.
The Park Tool shows it as 0. Opening up the chain that measures 0. How much is your drivetrain worth? The pieces of a modern bicycle chain. Opening up that chain which measures. Across the internet, you can find accounts of bike chains used as de facto whips or weapons. So if your bike breaks down in the middle of the zombie apocalypse, and you have a chain tool in your saddlebag , you at least have a fighting chance. How you ride affects the life of your chain.
Riding at a high cadence is typically not only more efficient, but also cost effective. Pedaling in a tougher gear puts more stress on the chain, significantly shortening its lifespan. Also, avoid cross-chaining—the practice of using the small chainring and small cog in the rear, or large chainring and large cog in the rear—if you don't want to stretch out your chain.
Replacing your chain regularly can prolong the life of your drivetrain. Most mechanics agree that you should replace your chain about every 2, to 3, miles, depending on your riding style.
Many Tour De France riders wear out two or even three chains on their primary bike over the course of the three-week race. Relja, many thanks for the careful, meticulous and informative work you do in helping us understand the somewhat obscure details of the bicycle industry. Thank you very much for noticing the mistake and taking the time to let me know. I do When doing experiments and comparisons, it is very difficult to draw a correct conclusion when more than one thing is altered.
With bicycle drivetrains:. Primitive, no lab. Just using one same bicycle mine , same drivetrain tooth count, cassette and cranks model etc. I have also put a high-end speed chain for a test, on that same drivetrain. To compare how long it lasts compared with the previously tested 8 speed chains, using the same cassette sprocket and crank chainring thickness. All the modern chains, from 7 to 12 speeds have no mechanism of keeping the lubricant inside, and dirt out.
The bushings were cast out for lower weight, cheaper manufacturing, and easier severe cross-chaining. On that account, on my motorcycle, cam timing chain is that the right term — the chain inside the engine block is half as thick compared to the drive chain, yet it lasts about 10 times longer. After having installed Scottoiler chain lubricant — that drips low viscosity lubricant over the chain practically constantly, and that swings off the chain along with the dirt, my drive chain lifetime had gone up by at least 3 times, compared to cleaning and lubing it with thicker lubricant on a regular basis.
Doing something like that with bicycles is not very practical — for me at least. So I choose to just run with the cheaper stuff. Decent quality chains seem to last approximately the same, regardless of the number of speeds.
The article was great. Can you shed some light on how to clean and lube a chain. On a single speed bike would a master link be better.
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